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As international trade routes flourished during the 17th and 18th centuries, the colours and patterns of Indian and Chinese textiles became fashionable in Europe. The Indian shawl is a luxurious example of this influence.
The term 'shawl' comes from the Persian shal, referring to a woven woollen fabric made from pashm (goat's wool). Shawls were precious - they were hand-woven and took two to three years to make. Traditionally worn by men at Indian courts, they were given to important visitors, who wore them over their shoulder or around their waist.
From the 1770s Indian shawls were imported to Europe by the East India companies. Appreciated by women for their style and warmth, they quickly became the essential fashion accessory.
"...Mrs Hastings tied a shawl round me before going out in the garden and I thought it a delightful trick of fortune to have placed me beside the Governor of India, ... wrapped in an East Indian material more costly than silk, much lighter and also much warmer than the latter". Sophie von la Roche, 1786.
To cope with increased demand, not only did European merchants travel to India with orders and pattern books to suit the home market, but also manufacturers in Norwich, Edinburgh, Paisley, Lyon and Vienna produced imitations of woven and printed shawls in the Indian style.
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Internationalism
